Travel: Tolu & Islas of San Bernando

14 years ago it was incredibly dangerous to travel through Sucre. Large areas of the department, primarily known for its farming and agriculture, were seized by opposing civil war forces and thrust into years of conflict. Progress in Sucre has been stinted due to this turbulent and violent period; it's largest city, Sincelejo, is underdeveloped and lacking industry. As a result, many backpackers only pass through on the route between Medellin and Cartagena.

Nowadays, Sucre is a much safer place - and is revealing a few gems of its own.

Sucre's coast boasts two seaside towns, Tolu and Covenas. These beaches are well known by Colombian holiday makers yet relatively unchartered territory for gringos.



Tolu is a quaint beach town, packed full of little stalls selling local crafts and beachside restaurants. Locals are friendly and inviting, and Colombian holiday makers are, well, hilarious. They will invite you to dance and join the festivities. Tolu has a party atmosphere - not a rowdy tourist vibe - rather, salsa on the streets and music until the early hours.




Make sure you are at the beach for sunset- it is mesmerizing. Enjoy a cerveza at one of the many bars, then head to the main plaza for street food or a meal. Tolu is cheap, a good meal can cost up to 10000COP.




There are some sketchy, dark streets away from the seafront - theft has been reported as a common occurrence. For 2000COP, a bicitaxi is a fun and safe way to get back to your accommodation.



VillaBabilla (30000COP) is a large sprawling hostel with an amazing roof top terrace and well equipped kitchen. In the off peak season you may have it all to yourself. If you want a cheaper option, you can head down to the beachfront and negotiate a price with one of the many small hotels there.

Unfortunately, the beaches on Tolu are not the best. Fine for a quick pop in the sea, yet the shore is dirty and overcrowded. Much better beaches are not too far away, though. Head 15 minutes up the road to Covenas for a quieter and cleaner place to sunbathe and swim.

For those craving the white sands and turquoise sea of the Caribbean, catch a boat with company Maradentro. They have several offices along Tolu's seafront. For 550000 you can visit the Islas de San Bernando. This will include lunch and a trip to an aquarium on Isla Palma.


Pelicans around the dolphin pool

Or, pay 350000 for the transport alone (unfortunately this requires a one hour wait on the dock while others visit the aquarium, however this can be passed with a pack of cards and a dip in the sea!).


Islote

The boat then passes Islote, the most densely populated island in the world (1250 people populate 0.012 km2). Quite incredible to see that kind of island life.



The boat will then drop you off at Mucura for three hours. Head to the other side of the island for some peace and quiet, and you can find a little cove of the caribbean all to yourself. Three hours not long enough? Stay the night in a hammock for 10000 - the boat drivers will tell you where to go.


The island all to yourself

If you want a beach town that still has its local charm and vibrant character head to Tolu - make a weekend of it so you can explore some of the majestic beaches nearby.

Travel & Culture: Barranquilla

Del caribe aflora
Bella, encantadora
Con mar y rio
Una gran sociedad

Many tourist books will tell you to skip the industrial port city of Barranquilla. Overshadowed by nearby backpacker destinations such as Santa Marta and Cartagena, many visitors only pass it by. It lacks the nostalgic charm of Cartagena and accessibility of Santa Marta. It seemingly does not warrant a trip, except during its world famous carnival celebrations in February.

Yet many Colombians, specifically of the Caribbean region, judge it differently. Barranquilla is the largest city of el caribe, and it serves as a bustling place for Colombians to go shopping, partying and to work.

The sizable city has a confusing and chaotic bus service, and along with its lack of hostels and 'touristy' things to do, it makes for a non-backpacking zone. However, if you get the chance to visit with Barranquilla with a local you may not think it as such an underwhelming place.

Cartagena Salsa singer Joe Arroyo famously sung 'in Barranquilla I stay', praising its great society and amicable people. Nowadays more famous internationally perhaps for being the birthplace of superstars Sophie Vergara and Shakira, Arroyo's song remains a favorite of Barranquilleros, who are fiercely proud of their city.

Upmarket district El Prado has some swish eateries, however for budget travellers the street food is cheap, plentiful and delicious, and the vendors are often engaging and friendly. Skip the empanadas (the Colombian version is neither are as tasty or satisfying as empanadas found in other South American countries), in favour of Carimañolas. Found only in the Caribbean, Carimañolas are made from yuca flour instead of corn, and are stuffed with everything from chicken, potato and cheese (1500COP).
Still hungry? Try some Chuzos, which are meat and vegetable kebabs (2500COP).

The 'rumba' of Barranquilla is well known in the region, and you had better know some basic salsa to participate. Head over to dance bar La Troja in El Porvenir to see the city's nightlife in full swing.

Any spare few hours should be spent in the Museo del Caribe (11000COP) on Calle 36. The museum offers insight into the various indigenous cultures of the region, and has floors dedicated to accents, music, topography and history. It is fascinating learning about the huge variation of culture in the region. Staff are friendly and are enthusiastic to provide additional information.

Watching videos in Museo del Caribe

Barranquilla can be a fun destination, so long as you have a local friend to steer you clear of the dodgy areas and introduce you to the thriving soul of the Caribbean's biggest city.

Travel & Culture: Cartagena

Cartagena

Colonial Jewel on the Caribbean Sea

Arguably one of the most beautiful cities in all of South America, Cartagena is a port city located in north Colombia. Founded in 1533, the Spanish colonizers built the city on land previously occupied by an indigenous Caribbean village. Cartagena grew quickly and became remarkably affluent thanks to its importance as a port and due to the gold in the surrounding region.

The wealth and treasures of Cartagena lured many pirates to the site, which resulted in pillaging. One most famous attack was lead by Sir Francis Drake in 1568, who destroyed a sizable chunk of the city and looted it for a vast amount.

This led to Cartagena's fortification - its walls still stand today, and many of the buildings in the old town are unchanged since the colonial time. The city has been remarkably preserved and its charming alleyways, winding streets and sprawling plazas make it a delightful destination to visit. The fifth largest city in the country, Cartagena caters to everyone, from beach bums to luxury city trippers and budget backpackers. It is a must go destination for anyone visiting Colombia.



It is recommended to spend at least a weekend in Cartagena. One day alone can be spent wandering around the colourful streets and admiring the city's churches and colonial architecture. A good place to start is the old town's former gateway, Puerta de la Reloj. From here you can start in any direction and walk around the old walled city. This is one of Colombia's safest tourist destinations, so there is no possibility of wandering into a sketchy area within the walls. One warning though - the weather is hot and can be overbearing, so you will want to avoid packing too much in. Spend the afternoon cooling down in a plazas such as San Diego, where lunch is served from as little as 9000 COP (3 pound).

Sights and a Museums



There are plenty of museums and churches to visit for when the sun gets too hot - however none are free. The city's iconic Catedral de Santa Catalina is 8000 COP with audio tour.

If pirates and naval history are more up your street, a short walk from the old town (15-30 minutes, depending on the heat!) is the Castillo de San Felipe de Baranjas, which can cost up to 17000 COP (just over 5 pounds). One of the strongest forts ever built by the Spanish in the New World, the complex castle is equipped with secret tunnels and crafty engineering work. The tour recounts the numerous attacks on the city and how the castle had protected and served since it's construction in 1657.

Cartagena at Night



The merciless sun sets at around 6.15pm, and it is worth climbing above the wall on the east side of the city to watch it sink into the Caribbean sea at Cafe del Mar. Drinks are pricey, however many sunset watchers just sit along the wall and buy refreshments from local street vendors.



Across from the Puerta del Reloj, just outside the walled town, is the vibrant Gertsermani, which is packed full of places that boast everything from live music, salsa and big clubs. A lively street to start is Calle Media Luna. It is not far from the old town, however walking at alone at night is unadvised, and you may prefer to get a taxi (which is a flat rate of 7000 COP).

Beach Trip





Cartagena is a mere hour away from some of the most beautiful beaches on the Colombian caribbean coast. Get a boat to Playa Blanca on Isla de Baru. Excursions leave from the port just outside the walled city, where boats will take you for a trip around the Islas de Rosario, then leave you on Baru's finest beach for a few hours. For those seeking a cheaper, more direct way to the island, a new bridge has opened up this year. Catch a bus five minutes from Cartagena's center to Pasacaballo for 1600 COP, and the bus driver will drop you off at a spot where Mototaxis are waiting. For 10000 they will take you across the bridge directly to the playa blanca. From the beach it is possible to negotiate a price on the boats back to the port (10000 COP should be accepted) - most leave around 3.30pm. It is possible to sleep on the island in basic accommodation (hammocks from 10000COP a night), and by doing so you can outstay the swarm of tourists from the boats and enjoy the beach in absolute tranquility.



Sleeping and Transport

El Viajero (30-35000COP) is a fun and lively hostel, while Makkako Chill Hostel (20-25000COP) is cheap and friendly. Both are in the Old Town, in San Diego neighbourhood.

The bus station is far out of town and costs 20000 in a taxi. Door to Door shuttles run from Taganga, Santa Marta, Barranquilla and Sincelejo and may be cheaper than getting a bus and a taxi. However convenient, shuttles usually take a much longer time than the bus.